You see it every day without giving it a second thought: that long gray line that frames the horizon of the Old Port. It’s the Digue du Large, seven kilometers of concrete that have protected Marseille for a century—and which you’re normally not allowed to set foot on. Except right now.
Seven kilometers built with stones from Frioul
Completed in 1925, the seawall is a piece of Marseille’s history all on its own. Made of concrete blocks and stones quarried from Frioul, it protects the Joliette and Arenc docks from storms and swells. A detail often overlooked: it was not designed solely as an engineering structure, but also as a public promenade. Hence its monumental double-flight staircase and its Cassis stone cornice with rusticated stonework. They certainly built with panache back then.
Why no one is allowed there anymore
The promenade was open for as long as it lasted. After the September 11, 2001, attacks, international port security regulations were tightened, and the seawall was closed to the public. For decades, only 500 members of a fishermen’s association were still allowed access, via a shuttle boat. A few exceptions punctuated this long period of closure. In 2013, the year Paris was named European Capital of Culture, artist Kader Attia installed *Les Terrasses* there. In 2023, a 450-meter section was partially reopened. Finally, in 2024, unique dinner events and two-hour tours were organized there.
How to enjoy it before September 5
This summer, the Tourism Office is offering twenty-one free guided tours, from June 27 to September 5, every Wednesday and Saturday at 8:30 a.m. Reservations are required at marseille-tourisme.com, and you’ll need to be an early riser—but the light over the harbor at 8:30 a.m. is reason enough to get up. From up there, you can take in the Pharo, the Mucem, the Bonne Mère, and the Frioul Islands all at once. Suffice it to say that this postcard-perfect view has to be earned, and the opportunity to experience it ends in a few days.
